The perfect vacation in Italy   By Paul Franson     Borgo Monastero near Siena

After you’ve been to Italy a few times, you realize that the real Italy isn’t in the cities, but in its small towns and farms. It’s nice to rent a villa for a month, but for most of us, the most practical alternative is to stay in one of Tuscany’s agriculture-oriented vacation villages.

Two exciting examples lie in Tuscany, one just south of Florence, the other near Siena. They both provide excellent locations for a relaxing or active visit – and at surprisingly low cost thanks to the strong dollar.

Both are connected with wineries, one with Marchesi Antinori, Italy’s premier wine company, the other with Castello di Monastero, a new venture of one of Italy’s wine entrepreneurs. Borgo Monastero was recently completed by auto parts entrepreneur Lionello Marchesi (It’s his last name; he’s not a Marquis like Piero Antinori).

A restored Ninth century monastery near Siena

The resort town (borgo means village) occupies a restored 9th century monastery and outbuildings overlooking the Ombrone Valley only a few miles east of Siena near Castelnuovo Berardenga in the Chianti region. Extensively restored from an abandoned ruin, it features updated apartments in an exquisitely restored walled monastery and nearby. Suitable for families as well as couples, the units have one or more bedrooms, modern bathrooms and kitchens plus wood-burning fireplaces bound up in an intimate sense of history.

Like most things in Italy, the village has a fascinating history. It was founded by a Frankish warlord, then was embroiled in wars between Siena and Florence, until abandoned centuries ago.
 Most guests stay for a week at the resort, using it as a base to explore nearby towns, wineries and castles as well as hiking on historic footpaths through 2000  acres of ancient forests or to nearby towns. On site are three swimming pools and tennis courts plus a club for kids from 4 to 12 during the summer. Horseback riding and bicycling are also offered.

The resort has an excellent but not fancy restaurant that offers both traditional Tuscan specialties and updated delicacies. Being in Tuscany, the food tends to be simple but delicious, featuring wonderful breads, pork and game as well as mushrooms and other local fresh produce. Tuscans are known as bean eaters to other Italians, and their bean preparations are superb, too.

There’s also a coffee bar for a quick pick me up or breakfast. Most guests take some meals in the restaurant but also visit dozens of good alternatives within a few miles, some simple pizzerias and trattorias, others gourmet destinations. Most guests also probably take advantage of local produce ? some from the farm ? and prepare some meals as well as breakfasts in their rooms.

Being in the heart of wine country, Borgo Monastero is surrounded by vineyards (as well as olive orchards and other agriculture) and wine receives a prominent place in its activities. Wine tastings are held regularly, and wines from Castello di Monastero and Marchesi’s other estates in Montalcino and other parts of Tuscany are offered in the restaurant and for sale at attractive prices.

It’s only a short drive from Borgo Monstero to nearby attractions like Siena and the Brolio Castle, but you can also walk down quiet paths to interesting attractions including the tiny walled town of San Gusmé.

Best of all, the price is as low as $50 per night off season, sure to rise as the property becomes better known. More information is available at www.velm.com/borgomonastero or 39-02-90960931.
 

Antinori’s agri-tourism venture           Fonte de' Medici near Florence

Fonte de’ Medici is an agri-tourism resort being developed by the famous Antinori wine family on property they’ve owned since the 1800’s; a branch of the de Medicis once owned it. The resort just south of Florence is only a few miles from Siena, San Gimignano and Montereggioni.

Once completed, the resort will contain 26 modern apartments in three locations within walking distance. All feature breathtaking views of the local rolling hills and vineyards and are near the Santa Cristina winery, which can be toured by appointment. Guests may even run into an Antinori including winemaker Alessia, one of the three daughters of Piero Antinori.

Seven units are in Podere Tignanello, a restored stone hamlet lying in the middle of the vineyard that produces the famous wine (Podere means farm community). The units have been lovingly restored with modern baths, kitchens and other furnishings under the direction and good taste of daughter Albiera Antinori. Guests can use barbecues and even a wood-burning bread and pizza oven.

The second part of the cluster is Podere Vivaio. two apartments near a spring-fed lake – fonte means spring. The restored hamlet of Santa Maria Macerata has 17 units, a swimming pool, tennis courts and a café.

The apartments lie about a mile away from historic Badia a Passignano, a venerable fortified monastery now occupied by only four monks; its cellars age  Antinori wines.

Next to the monastery is La Bottega, the Antinori’s only California-style tasting room and gift shop. It was established in 1996 by Allegra Antinori, the third of Piero Antinori’s daughters. Just opened is a destination restaurant adjacent to the tasting room under the direction of Albiera.

Information on the resort is available at www.fontedemedici.com or 39-0348-397-9600. Rates are as low as $90 per night off season.

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