Barbecue wines for the Fourth of July

By Paul Franson

Independence Day is the biggest non-religious holiday in America, and it’s a day when Americans gather with family and friends to celebrate our pioneering rejection of colonialism.

Everyone cooks outdoors on the 4th of July, perhaps in the evening before the fireworks display that reminds us of the battles fought to win our independence from England. But everyone has their own idea of the perfect BBQ menu, and that choice also determines which wines are the best match for the food.

Of course, wine isn’t the only choice. If it’s hot, many people prefer beer, whether America’s favorite, Budweiser, or one of the many regional brews or microbrews that have become so popular in recent years. In fact, they seem the perfect choice with hot dogs, other sausages and hamburgers; it’s silly and pretentious to serve a fine wine with frankfurters doused in ketchup and mustard.

Foe more ambitious meals, the best wine may be determined as much by the treatment as by the main course itself. Rich sweet red BBQ sauces cry for Zinfandel, long considered America’s native wine even though recent research places its origin in Croatia. Of course, Zinfandel is made in two ways, as a red wine and as white (really pink) Zin, and they’re a world apart in favor even if both are perfect with barbecued beef, pork or even chicken.

White Zin is fruity, low in alcohol and slightly sweet, characteristics that complement traditional BBQ sauce.

Red Zinfandel is produced by leaving the grape’s juice in contact with its deep red skins longer to pick up color and flavor. Some are light, claret-like, dry wines with little strong varietal characteristic but probably not ideal to stand up to Uncle Jake’s BBQ sauce. More popular are deeply colored, intense and often slightly sweet Zinfandels that provide the ideal match for the mélange of sweet, spicy and salty flavors in BBQ sauce. Some Zins go over the top, hitting alcohol levels above 16 percent but still sweet and flavorful. Though best consumed in moderation, I’ve got to admit that they work well. They can even match many desserts.

A lot of cheap jug and bag-in-a-box wines share similar taste profiles, and in fact, many contain Zinfandel as key components. Wines made with native American grapes or hybrids can also go well with strong BBQ sauce.

For meats, poultry and fish grilled without the sweet sauce, other wines may be better matches.

Beef and lamb are perfect with a range of hearty reds, from Cabernet and Merlot to Syrah or even Pinot Noir, though I suspect it’s not the time to bring out the best in your cellar.

Pork, with its slight undertones of sweetness and mild flavor, and most hams, matches well with a range of fruitier white, rosé and light red wines, though if you stud it with garlic and coat it with herbs, it can stand up to a fine Chianti Classico or Syrah. Marinated in cider, it’s perfect with sparkling, low alcohol cider, too.

Grilled chicken without an intense sauce can complement typical California Chardonnay, one of the few times those over-oaked, slightly sweet wines go well with food. Ditto salmon. Some of my favorite white wines for food are Pinot Grigios and Sauvignon Blancs, but most are too delicate for grilled food with all the smoky and caramelized tastes. Chicken and stronger fish, the type most people are likely to have outdoors and grilled are also fine with lighter reds like Pinot Noir. If you’re having lobster, however, the crisp, light whites are great, and be sure to invite me, too.

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From Senior Connections, June 2002