Anyone who has survived DisneyWorld probably wonders if the real Florida still exists anywhere. 

The answer is "Yes." The old Florida is still there, but you have to get off the tourist track to find it. Way off.

The best example is the Cedar Keys, a group of tiny islands hours away from anywhere. If you didn't know better, you'd think Jimmy Buffet wrote "Wasting Away in Margaritaville" there, not in touristy Key West.

The 20-plus Cedar Keys sit five miles out in the Gulf of Mexico in the part of Florida called the Nature Coast by the Chamber of Commerce - and the armpit of Florida by summer visitors.

Nevertheless, the islands retain charm that rightfully should have faded long ago. Higher than most property along Florida's coasts, the keys have been spared by most of the Gulf's devastating hurricanes. Many of the buildings still exhibit a neglected turn-of-the-century with drooping porches and fading paint.

The local attitude matches the look. The 1000 residents stay relaxed, sometimes even unresponsive. But that's just the way it is in the Keys. Life moves slowly. Blood pressures stay low. 

In spite of today's calm, the Cedar Keys boast a lively history. Once the end of a rail short cut to the Gulf, the Keys hosted blockade runners during the first years of the "War Between the States," as it's still known locally. Then the Federal Government occupied the area after winning some small but significant battles on the nearby mainland.

In addition to shipping, the Keys' wealth grew from the namesake cedar trees that once covered the islands. Unfortunately, the trees are gone. In that pre-eco time, they were cut down to make yellow-painted Eberhard Faber pencils.

In the 1800's, activity centered on the cooler, breezier offshore islands. They include Atsena Otie Key and Seahorse Key, where an abandoned lighthouse still stands. Today, the hub of activity is Way Key (sometimes confusingly called Cedar Key). A causeway across bridges and small islands connects it and other occupied keys to the mainland. 

Most of the "unconnected" islands in the group form the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge. To protect native wildlife during its reproductive season, these islands can be visited only between July and December, when you can arrange visits. Small boats and bicycles are also available for rent locally.

The Keys are a quiet place, one that invites relaxing and reflecting, not rushing around. The wharf bars hum on weekends in season, some with live music, but the pace slows at other times. 

Besides the sea, the beaches, the land and the ambiance, the islands boast other attractions. Two excellent museums covers the local scene, from geology, flora and fauna to the Native Americans who occupied the area. They especially highlight the period from the 1860's until the turn of the century when a rare devastating hurricane ended the area's prosperity. 

The islands have enjoyed modest growth, most tasteful. McDonald's hasn't arrived yet and attractive new condominiums complement the natural environment.

Newer houses occupy adjoining islands such as Rye Key, and even though parts of the small archipelago sit on higher ground than the rest of coastal Florida, most new houses perch on stilts to escape hurricane-driven tides. 

On the waterfront, a small "Fisherman's Wharf" holds many of the town's restaurants and its modest fishing and pleasure fleet. The local food tastes especially tasty as you watch dolphins cavort just feet away in the Gulf. You can always walk off the calories afterwards, a satisfying task on an island where you can stroll from one end to the other in an hour or so. 

The restaurants feature local seafood, including excellent shrimp, grouper and flounder, typically broiled or fried (this is the South, after all!). The soft-shell crab and oysters are especially delectable, notably a fried oyster roll that's first cousin to New Orleans' famous Peacemaker oyster loaf. 

Another native specialty is heart of palm, the artichoke-like core of the ubiquitous cabbage palm. If it seems a crime to kill a tree to fix a salad, the plant is common enough to be as much a nuisance in the yard as a treat on the table. These days, most palm hearts are raised in Brazil or Costa Rica. The most famous local concoction is the Island Hotel's heart of palm salad, a traditional dish that includes lettuce, shavings of palm heart, dates and mandarins, covered with a dressing that contains pistachio ice cream.

I'd recommend a simpler heart of palm salad!

Accommodations

There are many places to stay on Way Key, most relatively modest. These include modern motels plus condominiums that can be rented for longer stays. Prices are reasonable throughout the island. 

The most romantic accommodation is the two-story Island Hotel with its wrap-around verandahs. The Hotel, which was built in 1859, fairly drips atmosphere. You expect to see Somerset Maugham or Ernest Hemingway drinking gin and tonic in its bar. Its dining room maintains island traditions while offering gourmet food and is definitely worth trying.

The Hotel has 10 rooms, most with private baths and all with atmosphere: Mosquito nets shield the beds and ceiling fans turn slowly overhead (though air conditioning is provided, just in case). And if the staff seems indifferent, you are in the islands, mon.

Cedar Key is far enough out to enjoy sea breezes and the moderating influence of the water, so it isn't as sweltering in the Summer as many places along the Gulf Coast. 

The Keys' three annual festivals are good times to visit or avoid depending on your tastes and how far in advance you make reservations. As you'd expect of such a picturesque location, Cedar Key attracts swarms of artists of varying talents. During its renowned Sidewalk Arts Festival in April, tourists descend like mosquitoes on a new Yankee tourist. 

The town also celebrates Fourth of July and holds a seafood festival in October. Just remember: there's no place to stay (except camping and RV parks) for a long way if you don't have accommodations on the island itself.

The mainland nearby also holds a number of attractions, including a huge shell mound, the Waccasassa Bay State Preserve, Cedar Key Scrub State Reserve and the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge. Manatee Springs State Park is an hour away.

Getting there

Unless you come by private boat or plane, a car is the only alternative to getting to the Keys. The trip is an uneventful two-hour drive from the Tampa- St. Petersburg airport or one hour from Gainesville. 

Where to stay (All Cedar Key, FL 32625)

The historic Island Hotel, Second St., 904-543-5111.

Park Place Motel, Dockside Motel, Whitman Point Townhouses and Goose Cove Townhouses, P.O. Box 613, 1-800-868-7963 (One number for all accommodations).

Faraway Inn, Third and G Streets, 904-543-5330.

Cedar Cove Motel, Second St., 904-543-5332 or 800-447-0309.

Where to eat

Brown Pelican, on the wharf, 904-543-5428.

Cedar Cove Dining Room, Second St., 904-543-5332.

The Captain's Table, on the wharf, 904-543-5441.

The Island Hotel, 904-543-5111.

For more information, contact the Cedar Key Chamber of Commerce, Post Office Box 610, Cedar Key FL 32625. Phone (904) 543-5600.