The Weller House in Fort Bragg
By Paul Franson
Few
destinations are as popular for Bay Areas residents as Mendocino, an almost-too-cute
town straight off Nantucket a long drive north along the coast. Many visitors
never go a few miles farther north to visit another gem, a friendly Cinderella
trying to find Prince Charming.
Fort
Bragg is a blue-color town. It's still showing its fishing and lumberjack
roots, but is definitely starting to attract a new upscale crowd. Being
less expensive than Mendocino, it's become home to many artists and has
plenty of galleries and shops that should interest any visitor. There are
also a number of new stores and small but eclectic shopping malls in historic
buildings that increase its appeal. It has some great B&Bs and a few
notable restaurants.
Fort
Bragg is still perhaps best known as the terminus for the famous Skunk
Train, running delightful family excursions to Willits inland along the
scenic route once used to bring redwood trees to the lumber mill in town.
Named for a historic bus-train (a self-propelled passenger car) with smelly
exhaust, the Train is certainly worth the half day it occupies.
The
biggest problem Fort Bragg faces attracting tourists is the large lumber
mill that occupies most of the coast. There is talk of shrinking it or
opening up some areas, but for now, you have to go north or south to enjoy
the rugged shoreline.
Among
the attractions in Fort Bragg are the harbor, the Mendocino Coast Botanical
Garden, and shopping in a myriad of antique stores and galleries.
If
you haven't checked into its excellent Web site, be sure to stop by the
Fort Bragg-Mendocino Coast Chamber of Commerce on Main Street for information
on things to do.
Fort
Bragg boasts one of the new natural harbors along the north coast, and
it's home to a whole fleet of commercial fishing and party boats. It's
a real working harbor; there aren't many casual yachtsmen in this rugged
stretch of the Pacific. The harbor lies far below the highway at the south
end of town, and is crossed by a high bridge that provides a quick glimpse
as you zip over. Take the time to wind your way down, however. It's worth
a visit.
Not
surprisingly, the harbor is lined with seafood restaurants, and if much
of the fare comes from the fryer, the fish is very fresh and you can get
it grilled or broiled if you want. The chowders are generally great. Don't
except gourmet food, however. Many of the restaurants have outdoor seating,
but the weather often encourages sitting inside, preferably around a roaring
fire.
The
Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden south of town is a peaceful place to learn
more about local plants — or just relax and look out to sea.
Most
of the interesting shops in Fort Bragg are in a few-block area near the
Skunk Train Depot and the Guest House Museum, a must see. Many of the galleries
and stores, however, are one block east of the main street (Highway 1)
on Franklin St .
Lodging
in Fort Bragg
For
many people, Fort Bragg serves as a cheaper — or available — alternative
to Mendocino for lodging. Aside from some modern motels, the town is full
of interesting inns and B&B's, most also very close to the stores and
train station.
The
best know is probably the Grey Whale, which was once a hospital, but perhaps
the most attractive is the newly opened Weller House. Since it was built
in 1886, the huge mansion has had many lives, but has been restored over
the last few years by Ted and Eva Tidwell, refuges from the busy city life.
He's a contractor and she's the designer, and together, they've created
a charming inn with individuality and none of the kitsch and teddy bears
that characterize so many inns. Each room, most quite large, is individually
decorated and has a private bath. The Swedish Room, in blue and yellow,
reflects Eva's birthplace, as does the absolute cleanliness of the inn
and the magnificent breakfasts she bakes for guests. These breakfasts are
served in the top floor, a huge room that once was a dance hall and can
be booked for weddings.
Eating
in Fort Bragg
Fort
Bragg also has a variety of restaurants, from chain fast food to the gourmet
Rendezvous Inn and Restaurant, where the elegant fare is served in a comfortable
casual atmosphere. Owner/chef Kim Badenhop also has a great selection of
local wines and advice about what to do and see. Among the specialties
are lamb ravioli, day boat scallops, fresh sturgeon and decadent desserts.
Fort
Bragg also boats the popular North Coast Brewing Company, a great place
to sit by the fire and taste a variety of microbrews and perhaps some better-than-brewery
food.
Many
local restaurants specialize in breakfasts. It's best to make a reservation
for dinner at any better place, especially if you decide to drive the 10
miles into Mendocino or one of the coastal inns. Even during the week,
you may not be able to find anything with a table open.
It's
pretty quiet in Fort Bragg in the evenings, but just a few miles south
is the rocking Caspar Inn, which features a variety of music from Zydeco
and folk-rock to country and alternative. Drinks are dangerously cheap
after the big city, but if you visit, don't wear your city duds. The people
are friendly, but they'll think you're crazy if you dress up.
How
to get to Fort Bragg: The easiest and fastest way is up highway 101 to
Willis, then west on highway 20 to Fort Bragg. More scenic is highway 128
from Cloverdale, which winds through historic Boonville with its unique
dialect and the Anderson Valley, home of many fine wineries, before hitting
the coast south of Mendocino. Longest of all is all the way up highway
1, a draining but beautiful trip.
— end —
The
Fort Bragg-Mendocino Coast Chamber of Commerce has a great web site listing
everything of interest: http://www.mendocinocoast.com
Places
to stay in Fort Bragg: http://www.mendocinocoast.com/Towns/Lodges/lftbragg.htm
Places to eat in Fort Bragg:
http://www.mendocinocoast.com/Towns/Dining/fbdining.htm
Return to
TravelTastes