We encounter garbanzos (ceci or chick peas) so often in salads, felafel and hummus that it's easy to overlook the other uses of these nutritious legumes. Part of the Mediterranean culture for millennia, they can be used in place of grains in many recipes. Apparently polenta was once made with them, for example, and both Italy and Southern France prepare a snack "pizza" from garbanzo flour.

Italians and French seem to snack all day long, and these pizzas seem more appropriate for snacks, perhaps with hearty red wine, than as integral parts of meals.

Here are a number of recipes based on traditional foods using garbanzos. Some have been lightened to reduce the amount of oil used, though what is used is monounsaturated olive oil.

These recipes call for untoasted chick pea flour. Oddly enough, the flavor of chick peas becomes quite subtle in these recipes. The flour may be difficult to find even at health-food stores. Middle-Eastern and Indian groceries carry it, however. I found that you can make satisfactory garbanzo flour in a food processor from dried peas, though it takes a while and sounds like you're processing ball bearings at first. If you quit before the beans are completely pulverized, you get both flour and kernels suitable for polenta. Just sift them to separate the two.

Garbanzo flour can be combined with grain flour to provide vegetarian fare containing all the amino acids needed for humans to create protein. You can also make these recipes with flours from other legumes or chestnuts, the latter traditional in Italy.

Socca - A garbanzo pancake from Nice (Nizza)

Nice on the Côte d'Azure was the Italian Nizza for centuries, and its food still reflects an Italian heritage as much as French. A favorite snack in is socca, a chick-pea pancake fried in olive oil on a griddle. It tends to stick to the pan, hence its vendors usually cook it in plenty of oil, but we can avoid that with a non-stick pan.

Ingredients
1 cup garbanzo flour
Water as needed (about 1 cup)
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil

Mix flour, salt and water to make a thin batter and set aside for 30 minutes to an hour. Add more water if needed to maintain texture.

Heat nonstick skillet or griddle to hot. Pour on a tablespoon of oil, and when sizzling, add quarter-cup scoops of batter. The pancakes should be thin and can be as large as the pan, but would be hard to turn. Even Jacques Pépin couldn't flip this one! About 3 inches in diameter seems most practical. When golden brown, turn to brown on other side.

Add more oil as needed and repeat.

Serve immediately with pepper and more salt if needed. They don't improve with age.

Makes about 8 pancakes.

Cecina - A garbanzo pizza from Tuscany

This is a baked variation of socca. It is thicker, incorporates olive oil for taste and moistness, and can include herbs or other ingredients such as thyme, rosemary or sage. It's great with a tablespoon of minced garlic mixed with the batter.

Ingredients
1 cup garbanzo flour
1½-cup water
3 tablespoons olive oil plus one tablespoon for the pan
½-teaspoon salt
freshly ground pepper
Garlic or herbs, optional

Oil heavy cast-iron skillet or other metal casserole dish. Don't use glass or ceramic. Place in over preheated to 400 degrees until the oil is very hot.

Mix other ingredients thoroughly to create a thick batter. Pour into hot pan. It should be ¼ to ½ inch thick. Immediately return to hot oven. Cook until golden, approximately 20 to 30 minutes.

Drizzle with olive oil, cut into wedges and serve immediately as a snack or appetizer.

Alternately, cut into small squares and fry or grill to make tasty croutons for soups or salads.

In either this recipe or socca, corn, wheat or other flour can be used in place of part of the garbanzo flour for a complete protein source and different taste. Corn is especially delicious.

Serves four to six.

Farinata - Ligurian ceci polenta

Polenta made from garbanzos or ceci is a nice alternative to corn meal polenta. For this recipe, use larger chunks of chickpeas if you have them. You can also process soft, soaked or canned garbanzos for this recipe.

Ingredients
1 cup coarse garbanzo meal
2 cups water
½-teaspoon salt
Ground pepper

Bring water to boil, then add meal in thin stream, stirring or whisking until all is absorbed. Add more water if needed, cooking until mixture is the texture of porridge and pulls away from the walls of the pot.

Serve with cheese, butter or other sauce. Alternately, pour on oiled flat surface, let cool and grill or fry to accompany soup or entrée.

Serves four to six.