No Kids Allowed -Adult Recipes Using Soft Goat Cheese

by Paul Franson

New ingredients help us update our favorite recipes. A prime example is the soft goat milk cheese that's becoming widely available in gourmet shops, farmer's markets and even in many supermarkets.

Some of these chèvres, to use the French name producers use as a euphemism (like calamari for squid), are from California or elsewhere in America, others imported from Europe. They vary considerably in fat and calories as well as in "goatiness." Some people love the flavor, others hate it. In particular, most kids - the human type at least - don't like the distinctive flavor of assertive goat cheese.

These cheeses have the soft consistency of American cream cheese and can be used in many recipes in its place - though I don't think goat cheese would make great cake frostings!

A bonus of some of these goat cheeses is low fat content. One example is Chavrie, made from goat milk and containing only about 20 calories and 12 grams of fat per tablespoon. Yet a little bit seems to go a long way, adding considerably to the creaminess and flavor of many foods, even when the distinctive flavor is masked by other ingredients.

Here are some tasty ways to use soft goat milk cheese, starting with three almost-trivial combinations:

Lox and goat cheese on a bagel

Not much to say here. It's the Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers of bagels, preferably with a plain bagel; strongly flavored bagels will overwhelm both the cured salmon and the cheese.

Goat cheese and chive sandwich

If you like a traditional afternoon tea, goat cheese and chives provide an alternative to the usual tea sandwich with cream cheese. It's best with a coarse white country loaf bread.

Chevre sauce for vegetables

Goats love tender vegetables; this sauce may make you feel the same way. It's superb on both spring's tender asparagus and on fall's broccoli and Brussels sprouts.

Simply carefully heat a few ounces of soft goat cheese and dilute with a small amount of milk or cream to the desired consistency. It will soften on hot vegetables, so don't add too much liquid. It may require salt.

Adult mashed potatoes

Though raised in a Southern family where such things were unknown, I've developed quite a taste for garlic mashed potatoes. Unfortunately for the heart, they're best when loaded with butter and cream and some cooks compound the problem by serving them with gravy, turning a healthful potato into a culinary time bomb. Here's a variation that uses other flavors to reduce the need for cream or butter, though some is still needed for the best flavor and texture. It's great with simple roasted chicken or beef dishes.

Ingredients
3 large russet potatoes
4 cloves garlic
1 16 oz. can or homemade chicken broth (Not salty bouillon cubes)
2 oz. (5 tablespoons) soft goat cheese
1/2 cup (more or less) milk, preferably 2 percent fat or whole milk
2 tablespoons butter-flavored margarine (or butter)
salt and pepper to taste
chopped fresh chives or dill to garnish

Peel potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes. Peel garlic and trim off stem end then slice thinly. Heat broth, then add potatoes and garlic. The broth should just cover the potatoes. Cover and cook until potatoes are soft, then mash with a potato masher. You should have just about the right amount of broth to make a stiff mixture, but partially drain if necessary. Then add cheese and margarine and mix well. Add milk and reserved broth to obtain desired consistency. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve without any topping - it doesn't need it - garnished with chopped chives or dill. Serves four.

California Colcannon

Colcannon is Irish soul food, a traditional dish little-known outside Ireland. It sounds horrible, but it's great. It consists of rich mashed potatoes containing cooked onions and greens, usually bright green kale or pale cabbage. Unfortunately, part of what makes colcannon so good is its vast quantity of cream and butter.

Here's a modern variation of colcannon lightened up and using goat cheese to provide the rich flavor without so many calories and so much saturated fat. It's basically the above recipe for adult mashed potatoes with sautéed onions and greens replacing the garlic.

The greens contribute bitterness to balance the richness of the cheese. They can be anything from kale or chard to arugala or dandelion greens. An interesting alternative is radicchio, which isn't green but contributes a similar taste. I've even made it with expensive spring green mixtures sold in upscale markets.

For this recipe, Chinese cabbage adds a California twist. Whatever green you choose, make sure it's cooked but crisp before adding to the potatoes. For as appealing bright color for the greens (which I recommend), blanch them for 30 seconds in boiling water, then chill in cold water before sautéing. This dish tastes quite rich, and excels with simple roast chicken or sausages.

Ingredients
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups shredded Chinese (Nappa) cabbage or other greens
1 chopped medium onion
3 large russet potatoes (instant potatoes are an acceptable alternative)
1 16 oz. can chicken broth
2 oz (5 tablespoons) soft goat cheese
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons margarine
salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil and add onions and greens, sautéing until soft up not overdone. Remove from heat. Peel potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes. Heat broth, then add potatoes. The broth should just cover the potatoes. Simmer until potatoes are soft, then mash. You should have the right amount of broth for a stiff mixture, but drain if necessary. Then add cheese and margarine and mix well. Add milk and reserved broth for desired consistency. Mix in sautéed onion and greens. Salt and pepper to taste. Serves four.

Smoked salmon ravioli with goat cheese and greens

More and more fresh pasta is appearing in stores, some containing unusual but tasty ingredients. Unfortunately, conventional tomato, alfredo and pesto sauces can overwhelm their delicate flavors. The pastas are often better with something simpler such as this sauce I like on ravioli stuffed with smoked salmon. It's a surprisingly light sauce of goat cheese and greens.

The choice of green is up to you. Broccoli rabe or other turnip greens are too strong for most tastes, but spinach may be too soft and mild. A bitter green like escarole or dandelion seems to complement the rich salmon and cheese, but green chard is a nice compromise.

Ingredients
1 lb. fresh or frozen ravioli stuffed with salmon
One package (5 - 6 oz.) soft goat cheese
1 bunch chard or other green leaves, chopped
1/4 cup milk, half-and-half or cream
salt and pepper to taste

Bring large pot of water to boil and add ravioli. After it comes back to a boil, reduce heat to a low boil and cook until done, about 10 minutes. Don't overcook or the ravioli will lose its firm just-done texture or even fall apart.

Steam greens until tender. You can place them over the ravioli and save cleaning a pot; the little bit of juice that drips into the water won't matter. When done (about 5 minutes), remove from steam and squeeze out moisture. If no one is watching, you can use your hands. Otherwise, use a towel.

When ravioli is done, drain and return to hot pan (don't rinse) and briefly mix in cheese and enough milk to make a creamy sauce. You can also make the sauce separately if you want to be a perfectionist by warming the cheese and milk together. Add greens and fold in. Serves four. A big white wine or light red seems to best complement this dish.

Risotto with porcini mushroom and goat cheese

Risotti are really taking their place in innovative American restaurants, becoming almost as well accepted as pasta dishes. The ingredients that can be added to the basic risotto are almost endless - there are even sweet risotti, fancy rice puddings, in Italy - but this is one of my favorites. The rich, earthy, smoky taste of the mushrooms is a perfect foil for the goat cheese. It's pretty heavy for a first course unless the main course is light but it makes a good meal by itself if preceeded by a salad.

Ingredients
1 oz. package dried porcini mushrooms
2 cups hot water
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
2 cloves minced garlic
1 cup arborio or other risotto rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups beef broth or stock
1/4 cup soft goat cheese

Pour hot water over the mushrooms and let soak 1 hour. Then drain, reserving soaking liquid, which should be strained (it will contain sand) into a pot and heat the stock to boiling, then reduce to a simmer. Chop the mushrooms into small pieces.

In a separate large skillet or heavy pan heat the butter to medium high. Add onions and chopped mushrooms and sauté for a minute or two, then add garlic. Cook until onion is translucent, but don't let them or the garlic brown. Add rice and sauté for a few minutes, coating all grains with oil. Add wine (it should sizzle), stirring until it is absorbed and evaporated. Then start adding the hot stock, one ladle (1/2 cup) at a time, stirring thoroughly, and making sure that all the stock is absorbed before adding more. When you start to run out of mushroom liquid, add beef broth to pot and heat it up, using as much as needed.

After about 20 to 25 minutes, the rice may be done. Bite a grain; like pasta, the white core should just disappear as the rice is done. Sometimes the rice takes longer, up to 30 to 40 minutes. Add liquid to get a creamy, but not liquid texture. Take off heat, transfer to a bowl and add cheese and mix in well. Serve hot. Serves four as a main course.

Risotto with bitter greens and goat cheese

Italians have a taste for bitter foods, fairly unusual preferences. In addition to Campari and other quinine-laced apertifs, not to mention espressos, they like greens like broccoli rabe (rapini, a type of turnip greens), dandelion, frisée (curly endive) and radicchio (okay, so it's not green). These latter ingredients are great in risotti when goat cheese and rice balance their assertiveness.

Ingredients
1 bunch broccoli rabe or equivalent other strong greens
2 cups hot water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
2 cloves minced garlic
1 cup arborio or other risotto rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups broth or stock
1/4 cup soft goat cheese

To mellow flavor and retain bright color of greens, remove stems, then plunge them into a large pot of rapidly boiling water. Cook for about 2 minutes, then drain and cool rapidly in cold water (even iced). Chop coarsely.

Heat the broth to a simmer.

In a separate large skillet heat the oil to medium high. Add onion and sauté for a minute or two, then add garlic. Cook until onion is translucent, but don't let it or the garlic brown. Add rice and sauté for a few minutes, coating all grains with butter. Add wine (it should sizzle), stirring until it is absorbed and evaporated. Then start adding the hot stock, one ladle (1/2 cup) at a time, stirring thoroughly, and making sure that all the stock is absorbed before adding more.

Add greens after 15 minutes. After about 20 minutes, the rice may be done. Bite a grain; like pasta, the white core should just disappear as the rice is done. Sometimes the rice takes longer, up to 30 to 40 minutes. Add liquid to get a creamy, but not liquid texture. Take off heat, transfer to a bowl and add cheese and mix in well. Serve hot. Serves four as a main course. It can handle a big red wine, perhaps one with Italian antecedents.

© copyright 1997 by Paul Franson