By Paul Franson
Left-over rice in any form isn’t very exciting, but left over risotto is a definite no-no in Italy where there are only two legitimate uses for yesterday’s risotto. One is risotto pancakes. called risotto al salto. The other is deep fried risotto fritters, called supplí in the north or arancini ("little oranges") in the south from the golden color and original spherical shape though truncated cones are actually more common in Sicily.
In addition to these two traditional foods, left-over risotto makes great stuffing for vegetables and poultry as well as an unexpected soup.
Not all left-over risotto lends itself to these recipes. Simple varieties are the best, and the Baroque concoctions served in many trendy California-Italian restaurants are best consumed the first night if at all. Some might think it worthwhile to make a special batch of risotto or extra for the first three recipes.
Risotto al salto
Risotto pancakes (risotto al salto) are best made with classic risotto Milanese. flavored only with onions, butter, cheese and saffron. Simply mix leftover risotto with egg as a binder (about one beaten egg per cup of cold risotto), form thin patties and sauté over relatively high heat until crusty on each side. It’s a great luncheon dish with salad or vegetable.
Supplí or arancini
Deep-fried risotto fritters are also quite a treat. also best made with simple risotto. Again, the rice should be mixed with beaten egg to hold it together, and the fritters can be rolled in fine bread crumbs for a more elegant look.
Sometimes a cube of mozzarella cheese is buried in the fritter before cooking for a special treat. These anancini seem to be eaten as snacks, not as part of meals. It’s always amazing to wonder how Italians can snack all day on treats like these without gaining weight.
Risotto stuffing
Plain, mushroom or other risotto makes a great stuffing for poultry and many vegetables. Simply stuff the bird and bake. For peppers, artichokes, zucchini and eggplant, steam or boil until they’re barely tender, then scoop out the centers, stuff and bake until soft and the rice is crusty. Cabbage and green leaves are other possibilities, needing only brief blanching before stuffing. Tomatoes don’t need to be pre cooked, just emptied of seeds and juice.
Risotto soup
Definitely not a traditional treat, this is perfect with porcini mushroom risotto. Simply add stock and simmer until the rice turns to mush. It’s also great with scraps of chicken used to make the stock. It might be tempting to use risotto containing seafood, but the simmering would overcook the fish. That’s not a problem with the mushrooms.