Islands mark the four corners of the continental United States, islands that distill and define their regions. All are famous but one. Key West symbolizes the Florida lifestyle. Catalina means lifeguards and surfing. The San Juan Islands represent every north westerner’s dreams. But the Northeast corner of the U.S. remains mostly unknown.

The northeastern-most city is Eastport, a small island city, principally on Moose Island far down east in Maine. [Robbinston, ME, is the most downeast community, since it is the last community on the downeast coast of the U.S.] Though connected to the mainland by a causeway and bridges, Moose Island is definitely an island, as the local 26-ft. tides attest. It separates Cobscook Bay from Passamaquoddy Bay, both arms of the Bay of Fundy with its 50 ft. tidal range.

From Eastport, it's less than a mile by summer car ferry to Canada's Deer Island, thence by another ferry to mainland New Brunswick. During the winter, however, it's a long drive around through Calais (pronounced CAL iss locally) 28 miles by car, or 12 miles by water up the St. Croix River.

Eastport's picturesque waterfront demonstrates the difficulty of trying to live off tourists with such a short season and a location so far from population centers or commercial air service. If it were in California or near New York, Eastport would be an upscale enclave attracting tourists and weekend inhabitants, but its isolation has led to large colonial houses that sell for $40,000 and high unemployment rates. For those who do make it up here, however, Eastport provides a pleasant getaway. It boasts some attractive inns away from crowds and congestion.

Eastport also has some excellent restaurants downtown on the water, even if one didn't have any bottles of wine, just jugs of cold white and red. Naturally, local seafood stars on the menus, and a look out the window at the many fishing boats in the small, man-made harbor suggest that it's probably fresh.

The downtown also has some art galleries, a bookstore and a craft shop or two. S. L. Wadsworth is the nation's oldest ships chandler and the hardware store stocks everything from nails to nautical charts .

Because of the extreme tides and currents in the local waters and the local geology, the area boasts the largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere, the Old Sow between Eastport and Deer Island, New Brunswick. The Deer Island ferry passes near it, but it's turbulent enough to threaten small boats.

On the road into town, but within city limits, the Passamaquoddy Indian tribe has established a modest industrial park. Its members have unsuccessfully, thus far, attempted to open a casino in Calais, but it's difficult to understand who would travel so far to gamble when there are closer alternatives. Also, the Land Claims Settlement Act, which made reparations to Maine's tribes, now prohibits casino operation by tribes in the state.

Frustratingly close to Eastport across Friar Roads is Campobello Island, the Canadian Island where Franklin Roosevelt maintained his 34-room "cottage." To get there, you have to drive almost 50 miles around Cobscook Bay to Campobello Island's close-by U.S. neighbor, the village of Lubec, a worthwhile trip in itself.

Lubec shares similar faded but appealing charms with Eastport, and a few miles south is the West Quoddy Head peninsula, with a state park and lighthouse marking the easternmost point of land in the United States. The most-Eastern U.S. territory, in fact, is offshore Sail Rock just off the point.

From West Quoddy's high bluff, Canada's remote island of Grand Manan ("Manan" is Wabanaki (the common language of the four area Native Tribes) for "island.") looms only about 15 miles away, but accessible only via a 2-hour ferry that leaves from Black's Harbour, New Brunswick almost 150 miles away.

There are many trails in West Quoddy Head park, including one through Carrying Place Peat Bog, at the base of the peninsula that is home to the park.

Back at Lubec, to get to Campobello Island, you cross the short Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge, then go through Canadian customs. For inhabitants of the island who don't own a boat, this bridge is the only way to the mainland of Canada or the U.S. during the winter. During the summer, a ferry crosses to Deer Island, New Brunswick, which has a year-round ferry to the New Brunswick mainland.

During the season, you can take the ferry to Deer Island, then back across to Eastport, making a circle route possible. It would make a great bike trip. But watch your time: New Brunswick is on Atlantic Time, not Eastern. Miss the ferry and it could be a long wait or longer trip back.

Campobello Island is quiet, but has many houses, coves and harbors and the Roosevelt Campobello International Park, with trails and natural attractions as well as the Roosevelt Cottage and several other houses. Just two are open for tours.

The huge cottage features a magnificent view of Passamaquoddy Bay, and though large, it's surprisingly rustic with many small rooms including 18 bedrooms (some for servants). Friendly docents seem to relish your visit, unlike those in many parks.

A number of modest restaurants on Campobello Island include the locally popular Lupine Lodge. Likewise, quaint and friendly bed and breakfasts provide overnight accommodations.

A prime attraction of the island is Head Harbour Light, also known as East Quoddy Head Light on a small island at its far north-eastern end. Accessible only at low tide down steep ladders and slippery, kelp-covered rocks, the distinctive lighthouse calls out for your camera. From July through September whales are frequently seen offshore from this spot. But watch the tides or you could be marooned for six hours on the unoccupied rocky islet.

One of the area's few growth industries is fish farming, a response to dwindling catches of prime fish. Local "aquaculturists," like others in the area, belie their taciturn reputations, being friendly and happy to explain their craft. Another growing industry is cranberries, helping to supply the growing public demand throughout the country.

For tourists, the main attractions in the area are mostly outdoors, including hiking, fishing, sailing, canoeing and relaxing, although there are several museums and historic sites in the area. Passamaquoddy Bay, Cobscook Bay and many lakes are ideal for these pursuits, and equipment is available in season.

Off season, it's pretty quiet. Most restaurants and inns close, and the town settles into a long gray nap. This is the time when hearty souls relish the solitude, but others long for warmer, brighter climes. It's a great place for individualists, artists and writers year round, but a perfect site for a relaxing vacation for the rest of us.

How to get there

Eastport is a long way up coast route US-1, seven or eight hours if you rush from the Maine border with New Hampshire, or, a two- to three-hour drive from Bangor, which has scheduled air service. The coast is the way to go if you have time to explore the byways including Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park, Kennebunkport or Boothbay Harbor.

Where to stay

Eastport, ME 04631
Kilby House Inn Bed and Breakfast (1887 Victorian), 122 Water St., 207-853-0989.
Motel East (Modern but on the water), 23A Water St., 207-853-4747.
The Inn at Eastport, 13 Washington St., 207-853-4307.

Lubec, ME 04652
Home Port Inn, 45 Main St., 207-733-2077, 800-457-2077.
Peacock House B&B Inn, 27 Summer St., 207-733-2403.

Welshpool, Campobello Island, New Brunswick E0G 3L0, Canada.
Lupine Lodge, next to Roosevelt Park, 506-752-2555.

Places to eat in Eastport
Eastport Lobster and Fish House
WaCo Diner (Now in its 75th year,)
Baywatch Café
La Sardina Loca ("The Crazy Sardine" Mexican restaurant)
Happy Landings
Blue Iris Inn

© Copyright 2001 by Paul Franson

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