After the third distant but tantalizing glimpse of Monte Argentario from the Rome-Genoa train, I had to visit it myself. Little mentioned in tourist guides, this mountainous island juts out into the sea near Grossetto, beckoning the visitor who hates to follow the path well-trodden by International tourists.

Technically, Monte Argentario is a peninsula, connected to the mainland by two 10-km long sandbars (tomboli) that built up only at the end of prehistoric times. They enclose the shallow Laguna di Orbetello which contains Orbetello, a Venice-like city rising on islands amid the lagoon and its canals.

Formerly a tiny Spanish Province, the Argentario also fell under Austrian and Bourbon domination until 1801, when it entered Tuscan control.

This small area, measuring 20 kilometers in each direction, offers many attractions to the visitor, historic, natural and touristic. The most visible, aside from the lagoon and surrounding Tyrrenian Sea, is the Parco Nazionale dell'Ucceliina containing mountains to climb and trails to follow.

The 10-km diameter island is circled by a scenic road that skirts two towns, the business-like Porto San Stefano, and the historic and yacht-oriented Port'Ercole (Port of Hercules). Medieval watchtowers along the road guard the coast against long-past foes. Few are open but all beckon the photographer.

From Porto San Stefano, ferries leave for the small island of Giglio, a vital visit for its picturesque mountain-top walled village and castle, as well as its rugged beaches and vistas.

Porto San Stefano is a real Italian town, little touched by foreign tourism. In the evening, Italian families and young people stroll along the long waterfront, eating gelato, talking to friends and occasionally stopping for espresso or cappuccino.

Porto San Stefano has a number of hotels, one, Hotel La Caletta, on the waterfront. Pleasant but hardly luxurious, it's convenient to many local seafood restaurants.

Port'Ercole is another matter. Stereotypically quaint, it surrounds a tiny but historic harbor, with large castles on the hills at each end. Port'Ercole caters to yachts, but most seem Italian, so the port retains its local feel.

There are a number of moderate hotels in town, with Hotel Don Pedro a modern addition on the hillside overlooking the harbor and town.

Orbetello also deserves a visit, for though part is modern, it features many historic buildings, particularly from the time when it was the center of the Spanish province.

Aside from exploring the many natural and man-made sights, the biggest attraction of the Argentario is seafood. Modest and fancy restaurants abound, all proudly featuring fresh products from the sea.

Because the area caters to locals and Italian yachtspeople, all the restaurants and trattorias have excellent food but not renown. I've found the best way to find a good meal is to ask locals, including the employees of hotels - or simply follow your nose, reading the menus that are posted outside. The local wines are very drinkable and inexpensive.

There's a train station on the mainland opposite Orbetello, and it would be possible to see part of the area by bus or taxi. A rental car (or even motorbike if you're brave) would make a visit more fun, allowing you to see things and visit places that would otherwise be impractical. One warning: Even though the three towns in the area are small, driving in them can be as scary and frustrating as in Rome, so take care!

Finally, remember that the tourist attractions fade off season. There were literally no restaurants open on Giglio during a visit in early October, and many of the businesses in Port'Ercole were also closed.