Short trips/getaway excursion Paso Robles offers alternative  wine country destination     By Paul Franson Correspondent

The downtown area of Paso Rables has an old-fashioned feel to it.

EVERYONE knows about Napa and Sonoma, but other wine regions in California are great getaways — and they don’t have the crowds of their famous competitors.

One of the most enchanting is Paso Robles, a compact area just inland from the Pacific Ocean halfway between the Bay Area and Los Angeles. It’s a delightful throwback to the days before long waits for dinner reservations and $100 wines in Napa and Sonoma.

It’s a laid-back place with inexpensive lodgings, an old-fashioned feel — and easy access to the coast and Hearst Castle, one of the state’s biggest attractions.

The area is characterized by rolling hills and mountains, orchards, horse ranches and giant oaks. (The original name of the town was El Paso de los Robles, los robles being Spanish for the oaks). More and more, however, the area is becoming known for its wines. Paso Robles may not yet have its cachet, but some of its wines challenge the best in Napa.

Paso Robles wine country is more formally known as the Paso Robles American Viticultural Area (AVA), though there’s also a tiny York Mountain AVA adjacent. The Paso Robles AVA occupies much of the inland northern half of San Luis Obispo County.

It’s a sun-baked area traditionally planted for rustic red wines like zinfandel, petite sirah, and carignan, but more recently proving Ideal for cabernets and merlot. Though big producers from up north — and even Down Under — are planting vast tracts in vines, small producers still dominate the wine scene. Some are funky old-time country wineries that still produce dense jammy zinfandels, but others like Eberle and White Horse make sophisticated reds that rate with the best in the state.

The small city of Paso Robles itself shares with Sonoma and Healdsburg the ideal downtown for a small town: It’s clustered around a peaceful plaza in the Spanish style with stores and offices surrounding. As in other picturesque towns, the area Is filing with restaurants, antique shops and other entertainment venues as well as the appliance, hardware and clothing stores still frequented by locals.

The nearby town of Templeton has a Southwestern flavor, and you expect horses to ride past the feed mill to tie up at wooden buildings with false fronts and overhangs — and they do. The paved main street almost seems out of place, as do the BMWs and Mercedes owned by escapees from Los Angeles.

At most of the 40 wineries in the area, you’ll encounter a friendly welcome, often by the owner or winemaker and the inevitable vineyard dog. Few of the wineries charge for tasting, though it’s only polite to buy at least one bottle unless you can’t find anything you like, particularly since the prices are reasonable. Most wineries are open daily for tasting.

The area has hot summer days with nights cooled by marine air from the Pacific just 15 miles away. These are ideal conditions for many red wine grapes. The area also features many different soils, varying terrain and distinct microclimates as well as a huge underground aquifer for irrigating the grapes.

The oldest local winery in the area is York Mountain, first planted in 1882. It still occupies the original rambling old brick and stone building. It has added contemporary cabernet, chardonnay, pinot noir and merlot to its traditional Zinfandel.

One of the most noted wineries in the area is Eberle Winery, founded by Gary Eberle who’s often called the Godfather of Paso Robles wines because of his tenure and influence.

Eberle came to the area early, planting the first major post-Prohibition vineyard for Estrella Vineyards (now Meridian) In 1973 and becoming its first winemaker. He released his own wines In 1982. Eberle’s cabernets often rate with Napa’s best, but he also is a big believer in syrah and other Rhone varieties.

Another interesting local winery is Wild Horse Winery in Templeton. Ken Volk started the winery a year after Eberle. Named after the wild mustangs that still roam the area, Wild Horse makes the popular varieties plus a delightful Malvasia Bianca, syrah and a number of rare Italian varieties like Tocai Friulano, Dolcetto and Arneis.

The largest winery in the area is Meridian Vineyards, owned by Beringer Wine Estates. Along with well-crafted wines at reasonable prices, its facility includes an interesting garden of local and drought-resistant plants and a comfortable picnic ground.

Wine Isn’t the only attraction In Paso Robles. For those with an itch for the outdoors, there are a number of golf courses in the area, plus Lake Nacimlento for boating. Just north of Paso Robles is Mission San Miguel Archangel, the 16th mission in the chain established by Franciscan padres. The priests planted the first wine grapes in the area in 1797. The mission is open to the public.

West of Paso Robles Is the beautiful, windswept coastline of the Pacific Ocean, offering numerous interesting sites and activities. It also boasts some world-class resorts. The tiny community of Harmony includes a winery — one of the few along the coast — and artists’ galleries.

Just off Highway 1 a few miles north is Cambria, an attractive small town almost invisible from the road. A destination in itself, Cambria contains resorts, inns, restaurants. and stores specializing in fine art and antiques.

Cambria actually consists of two separate villages; don’t overlook either. Some of the nicest inns and restaurants are on Moonstone Beach Drive along the beach.

The biggest attraction in this coastal area is Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument. It’s better known as Hearst Castle, and was once the home of newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst. It was designed by architect Julia Morgan so Hearst didn’t have to camp on his 250,000-acre ranch.

Inland far above the ocean, it’s open to the public, but reservations are vital for any of its four daytime or evening tours. Each lasts almost two hours and covers about half a mile with up to 400 steps. It’s a magical place — the name Hearst gave it was La Cuesta Encantada, the enchanted hill — and a must see when you visit the area. There is lodging at San Simeon, gateway to the park.

Paso Robles has a number of inexpensive motels and hotels, and the historic Paso Robles Inn Is being restored. There are also many places to stay on the coast including some luxury accommodations.

The best way to experience the area, however, is to stay in one of the area’s bed and breakfast inns on a vineyard.

The Arbor Inn Is a new Victorian-style B&B Just outside town in the middle of a working vineyard and old oak trees across the road from Treana Winery. Both are owned by the Hope family.

The winery tasting room houses a deli for picnic lunches. The nine rooms at the inn are luxurious, all with fireplaces and great views. Each afternoon, there’s a wine tasting with Treana wines and hors d’oeuvres, plus a snack after dinner. Rates range from $ 150-$250 per night.

A special treat awaits at the Just Inn at Justin (get it?) Vineyards at the end of Chimney Rock Road in the foothills of the coastal mountains. It has only three rooms, but they’re luxurious and have fireplaces. Like Arbor Inn, it serves its wines in the afternoon plus a full breakfast in the morning. The isolated winery has a restaurant that prepares prix fixe gourmet meals with wine pairings. The restaurant is open to people not staying at the inn, but requires reservations. Rates are $225-$275 per night.

Paso Robles wineries make great wines, but it hasn’t yet attracted the kind of destination restaurants found in Napa or Sonoma. Still, there are plenty of good eats. The prevailing local cuisine focuses on steak and other meat that complement its excellent red wines.

Bistro Laurent on the town plaza serves French country food with a few local touches and Busi’s is a local favorite with outdoor seating.

If you go

Useful telephone numbers

Arbor Inn (805) 227-4673
Just Inn (805) 237-4150
Hearst Castle reservations (800) 444-4445
Paso Robles Vintners and Growers (800) 549-WINE

Paso Robles Wine Country Events.

Zinfandel Festival in March
Paso Robles Wine Festival Weekend, third weekend In May
Paso Robles Wine Affair, third weekend in October

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