A week of cruising San Francisco Bay was a long-time goal for me; I’d sailed on the bay many times but had never been a cruiser in the city that has a good claim to being not only America’s favorite sailing destination, but its foodie capital as well. It’s probably the only place in America where you can enjoy such varied conditions and so many fascinating ports – and such wonderful restaurants within walking distance.

It’s a place where the wind often blows 25 to 35 knots and the tide drives strong currents. It’s a place where the temperature can plummet in minutes and the fog tends to pounce, not on little cat feet, but like a lion.
My daughter, Wendy, and I set out from Berkeley Marina, where we picked up Mahunia, a Catalina 34 we’d chartered from OCSC, Inc., on a bay that was as docile as an old tomcat lying in the sun. But as we headed across the bay to the Pier 39 Marina, a great base for seeing San Francisco, the wind and waves picked up, and we had to be super-alert for ferries and sightseeing boats. The marina houses an odd collection of craft, from the elegant to the dilapidated, as well as a noisy population of sea lions that moved in after the 1989 earthquake.

We were soon on foot, walking along the waterfront promenade that leads from Pier 39 to other bayside
attractions: Fisherman’s Wharf, the Cannery and Ghirardelli Square shopping areas, and a host of street musicians and craft vendors. Our destination was the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, with various vessels to view or visit and a ship-shaped museum to explore.

North Beach, San Francisco’s vital Italian neighborhood, was an easy walk, an irresistible draw for dinner. The original local Italian-American community originated near Genoa, with food based on Ligurian styles. My favorite local dish is cioppino, the messy tomato-based seafood stew that contains Dungeness crabs.

After breakfast at Il Fornaio, it was time for some sailing. We sailed west by the Marina District and under the Golden Gate Bridge – almost a requirement for visitors – enjoying the boost of the 6-knot current. Then it was back under the bridge to the Schoonmaker Point Marina in Sausalito. The area is windy in late afternoon when the sea breeze pipes up, but it’s usually fog-free and warm when San Francisco is shivering. Next door is the San Francisco Bay Model, which shows how tides affect the bay and the boats that sail on it. We remembered those lessons the next day when we sailed through narrow Raccoon Strait on an incoming tide.

Sunday brunch at the classic Alta Mira Hotel, up a steep stairway from downtown, gave us a superb view of the fog playing hide and seek with the Bay Bridge and the city. Our first destination was Tiburon, a small community crowded with restaurants and shops. With the tide behind us, we ripped through Raccoon Strait, as expected, and made a stop at Sam’s Anchor Cafe, a great place to spend the afternoon. Since we were there early, we pushed on to Angel Island, a little-visited treasure in the bay.

Angel Island has held immigration stations, a quarantine hospital, army barracks, and a Nike missile site; now it’s a state park. If you arrive early you can grab a slip for the day in Ayala Cove, but we had to fight the wind to pick up a mooring. Ashore, a 12-mile path winds around the island, and there are spectacular views for those willing to climb to the top.

Sail-sightseeing your hometown – or any other big city, for that matter – is an unbeatable experience. Here are
some of my other favorite San Francisco Bay destinations:

Treasure Island. Once home to Pan Am’s Clipper flying-boat fleet, it’s now a Naval base being decommissioned to an uncertain future. Mostly off limits to civilians, it has a snug if windy cove where you can anchor to enjoy the view and a Naval Museum.

Oakland Estuary. This narrow channel separates Oakland from the laid-back island of Alameda with its quiet Victorian neighborhoods. Marinas with guest slips line the long estuary in Alameda and at Jack London Square and Embarcadero Village in Oakland. Many waterside restaurants have docks.


South Beach Marina. A recent addition to the city’s waterfront Embarcadero below the Bay Bridge, it’s close to the South of Market (SoMa) entertainment district and downtown.


Alcatraz Island. Though private boats can apparently dock with permission, it’s easier to take a ferry to visit the famous prison.


San Francisco Municipal Yacht Harbor. Near the Exploratorium, a wonderful science museum, the Marina district harbor has guest slips.


North Bay. The northern bay can be much warmer than its center; anchor overnight at Paradise Cove. Farther north is San Pablo Bay, gateway to the Sacramento Delta, where San Francisco sailors escape the cold and fog of summer.

South Bay. South of the Bay Bridge are "suburban" marinas for local sailors, but they are of little interest to visitors.

The best times to sail San Francisco Bay are the spring and fall, when the weather is warm and the fog rare. Expect strong winds and tides.We chartered from OCSC, Inc. (formerly Olympic Circle Sailing Club), whose boats range from J/24s to a Beneteau 43. OCSC, Inc., #1 Spinnaker Way, Berkeley, CA 94710; tel. 800-223-2984; 510-843-4200. OCSC also has a trailer ramp, as do many marinas.

It’s important to call ahead to reserve slips since accommodations are limited.– P.F.

San Francisco-area writer Paul Franson considers the bay his home waters.